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Water pumps generally last around 100,000 miles, but they can sometimes last up to 200,000 miles. Since there's no precise way to predict when it will fail, I would consider replacing mine at around 100,000 miles as a precaution. However, it's best to have a mechanic inspect it for any unusual noises or signs of wear.

You mean tail lights at 1:04 ? Sorry not sure which lights you mean.

Wow, that's great! And not only will the cord pull easier, the engine will run much better too! When the timing is off, the engine runs louder and overheats. Glad it worked out for you, and thanks for the comment!

@@CleverFix the top half of my handle on the pull rope had even broke off in my hand so I knew I needed to at least try to find the problem. Thanks again. 😉

That's great to hear! Thanks for watching and the feedback, It's appreciated.

This is the best I found: www.clublexus.com/forums/nx-1st-gen-2015-2021/933919-2015-nx200t-auto-headlight-feature-help.html if the sensor is not obstructed, it should be detecting the light and working. So if it's not, it has to be checked with a diagnostic tool, and most likely the sensor has to be replaced. www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/839095-headlight-sensor-location.html

Yes, it's working great, Pioneer is a very reliable brand, that's why I picked it.

@@CleverFix thank you I just installed mines today and I love it. you made it so easy but my boyfriend don’t listen so I keep using your video as a guide.

@@MrsOneOfAKind16 Wow, that's amazing.. I'm glad it was easy to understand & thanks for watching! I love the stereo too, it has great sound, and it makes driving much more enjoyable.

No, rear speakers are at the back, not in the doors. And even for the front speakers, just the door panel is enough.

@@CleverFix well I was asking cause you did it to one side in the video I just wanted to make sure

@@ethelyuh6310 If you mean the white colored panel, behind the door, above the package tray, then yes both have to be removed.. That's called the C-Pillar Panel, it's not weather stripping.

@@CleverFix if I was at home I'd be able to find the timestamp but you took off the seal around one rear door and then a black panel on the floor that runs under the door, and you put it back at the end of the video, in the video you only did it to one side, i was just wondering if that was something we needed to do to both sides or if that was just to show us where the wires ran in the car

@@ethelyuh6310 Oh yes, I remember now,. Yes, same on both sides, I just didn't show it twice. The purpose of removing the rubber seal, is to get the panels off, otherwise it's hard to reach the clips underneath and pull them off. The purpose of disconnecting the middle brake light wire behind the panel, is to be able to remove the package tray, without breaking it. The package tray has the middle brake light build into it, so pulling on the tray can break that wire, if it's not disconnected first. Hope that helps!

Check this video, for 2022: ruclips.net/video/vwws5miVKlU/видео.html

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

Thanks for the feedback, it's appreciated!

You're welcome. I'm glad you liked the way it was explained, and thanks for watching!

Glad the video helped, thanks for watching!

What is "Blew up" ? The cone separated and sounds bad? Or stopped working?

@@CleverFix Yes the core separated, i think they used some cheap glue or something, I tried to glue the ones from the back without taking the whole cover out but it was kind of hard, has this happened in your Corolla?

@@theblukatlife No, both of mine on the front lost connection because of corrosion. They're very low quality, so I'm not surprised they separated. Almost any new speaker will be better, so I'm actually happy they stopped working, because I have much better sound now.

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

@@CleverFix i have a 7 hp clone mounted on a chassis for a water pressure washer , i m gonna put new oil in the engine and also hydraulic oil in the pump and restart it

Thanks for watching and for the feedback.

All my bearings were good, it was just too loose. With the new belt, tensioned properly, there are zero deposits so far.

@@CleverFix Oh yes, my 2014 corolla has a tensioner and if the spring is weak it will cause the belt to melt on the back side. Yours was loose, same thing.

@@theearthisntflatpleasestop9899 Yes, I think the tensioner design your has is better, because it adjusts over time. The screw method mine uses doesn't continually adjust, so I'll have to check it regularly from now on, so this doesn't happen again.

Thanks for the comment and for watching!

Thanks! This is on a 2014 Corolla, with aluminum wiring, so cutting off the connector is a huge plus, because the OEM connector corrodes in time and loses connection. That was actually the #1 reason for me to do the upgrade. If you have an older Corolla it will be fine though.

Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful! Your feedback is appreciated.

I am not aware of any aftermarket port with the exact cable. Check a junk yard, or the dealer. It should be very cheap at the yard.

Nice! Glad the video helped, thank you for subscribing and watching!

Depends on the system. If you have an external amp, and high wattage speakers, as well as a subwoofer, then it would help to dampen vibrations. I've applied butyl rubber deadening to my entire car in the past, but I had an external amp, and sub, so it made more sense. Without high power, the difference will be small, and maybe the $$ is better spent on an amplifier, subwoofer, stereo upgrade, or better speakers.

Are you sure you are looking at the speaker wires?? Here are the wire colors for almost any Corolla: my.prostreetonline.com/2015/07/02/how-to-toyota-corolla-stereo-wiring-diagram/

2012-2018 Wire Colors are: Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White The Yellow can look very much like white, I mistakenly labelled it as "White" in the video.

@CleverFix there's definitely no red, or yellow and might be white. But they're all dark colors. I was gonna tap into them near the door jam. But since the colors weren't the same I torn into it. The connectors and the factory wires are not the same as the diagram. And all pictures I've seen are for older ones. Mines a le so base model as them come. But not much pictures of newer like 2016 up base that I can find. So I bought a adapter from metra and gonna use those to piggy back off of to keep no cutting. A lot of work for me to install just a kicker pt250.

@@sneakysnakepie1 It's really strange, because I checked the Chilton wiring diagram for 2017 and it's supposed to be the same as mine.. Red and White on one side, and Black/Yellow on the other. You can use a voltmeter to determine the polarity: ruclips.net/video/zmiTlJnf_E0/видео.html

Thank you, I'm glad it was easy to follow, and thanks for watching. It's appreciated.

I used Tesa on the stereo upgrade. Inside the doors, you have to be careful which Tesa, because some absorb moisture and get wet.. so it's better to just use good quality regular electrical tape in some cases. I spoke with an audio installer about it, and he says the biggest advantage of Tesa is that he can easily use it during winter, when other tapes are too cold to stick.

It's a 2014 Corolla. The install should be similar for all 2014-2019. See this website for compatible parts: www.crutchfield.ca/g_103200/Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html?avf=1

Yes, Proper torque is important. Thanks for watching!

Felt will help, but it's not as quiet, and not as good long term. If you're not using them much, felt should be ok though. It all depends how much they're used, and if you don't mind the slightly open doors from the thick felt bumper, and seeing it every time you open the door. Some people are picky, especially if it's a renovated kitchen.

Thanks for the comment, I'm glad the video was helpful! I'm thinking to do more comparison videos, so it's good to know.